Maillard reaction: Should I use a silicone or metal mold for madeleines?

In the world of baking and pastry-making, the recipe isn’t the whole story. Two bakers can use exactly the same madeleine batter and end up with radically different results depending on the mould they choose. It’s not a matter of luck or skill. It’s a matter of physics and chemistry. The Maillard reaction, the process that gives madeleines their beautiful golden colour and characteristic aroma, does not occur in the same way depending on whether you bake in a metal mould or in a silicone mould.

For artisan bakers and pastry chefs, as well as manufacturers working in the Bake Off sector or with frozen products, understanding this difference makes all the difference. This guide explains exactly what happens inside your oven and why the Maé Innovation silicone madeleine mould delivers results that metal moulds simply cannot match.

Table of Contents:

The Maillard reaction: what is it?

The Maillard reaction is a chemical reaction that occurs between the amino acids and reducing sugars in food when it is heated. It is responsible for the golden to brown colouring of cooked foods, the crust of bread, the caramel in a cannelé, and the colour of a biscuit fresh from the oven. In the case of the madeleine, it is this reaction that creates the beautiful, slightly caramelised golden hue on its surface and develops its characteristic flavours.

At what temperature does the Maillard reaction begin?
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The Maillard reaction begins at around 140°C and intensifies with increasing heat. The higher the temperature and the more direct the contact with the mould’s surface, the faster and more pronounced the reaction. This is precisely where the choice of mould plays a decisive role.

Pourquoi la réaction de Maillard est-elle importante en production ?▼

Whether in artisanal or industrial production, controlling the Maillard reaction determines three key factors: the final colour of the product, its surface texture and its flavour profile. If the reaction is too intense, it results in an over-developed crust. If it is too weak, the madeleine remains pale and lacks character. The right level of Maillard reaction is what your customer expects, and it is your mould that determines it.

Metal baking tins vs silicone moulds: what really happens during baking

Using a metal mould

Metal is an excellent conductor of heat. As soon as it enters the oven, it heats up rapidly and transfers this heat directly to the batter. The Maillard reaction is therefore intense and rapid on the surface. The result is pronounced browning, a well-developed crust and a drier texture. For madeleines, particularly in industrial production, this is not always the desired effect.

Using a Maé silicone mould

Silicone is a poor conductor of heat. It distributes heat gradually and evenly, without concentrating it on the surface. The Maillard reaction occurs more gently and in a more controlled manner. The moisture content remains higher throughout the cooking process. The dough cooks evenly from the inside out, rather than browning immediately on the surface.

Maé Innovation silicone madeleine moulds

Maé Innovation offers a comprehensive range of professional silicone madeleine moulds, manufactured in France using 100% premium platinum-cured silicone, which is non-toxic and complies with French and European food contact standards. Each product is designed for intensive use, ensuring clean release without the need for pre-greasing.